Croatia: From the Sea to the Mountains in 40 Minutes

Croatia is a country where the landscape can change dramatically within a short drive. You can start your day swimming in the Adriatic Sea, surrounded by steep limestone cliffs, and less than an hour later find yourself walking among mountain peaks at 1,600 metres above sea level.

One of the best places to experience this contrast is the journey from Zavratnica Bay near Jablanac to Alan Pass on Velebit. It’s a short drive, but the change in scenery is remarkable.

Zavratnica

How to Get to Zavratnica Bay?

Zavratnica Bay is located near the small coastal village of Jablanac. It is around a 2-hour drive from Rijeka and approximately 3 hours from Pula, Zagreb or Split. In Jablanac you can park along the road before entering the village and follow the coastal trail to the bay. Parking is free, but spaces can fill up quickly during peak season, so arriving early is recommended. The trail is approximately 1.8 km long and takes around 20 minutes each way.

Entrance Fee: A ticket is required to visit Zavratnica Bay. The current price for individual visitors is €5 per person. You can check the latest prices on the official Velebit Nature Park website.

What to Do in Zavratnica Bay

Sunken ship in Zavratnica

Zavratnica is a narrow inlet stretching around 900 metres inland, surrounded by steep limestone cliffs rising up to 100 metres above the sea. Its narrow shape and sheltered position made it a natural refuge for boats seeking protection from rough seas.

One of its most unusual sights lies underwater: the wreck of a German military landing craft that sank during an air raid in August 1944. The wreck rests at a depth of around 8 metres, making it an interesting spot for snorkelling. Even without exploring the wreck, Zavratnica’s clear water, rocky seabed and steep underwater landscape make it a lovely place to swim and snorkel. Bring a mask and snorkel if you want to see more than the view from the shore.

When to Visit Zavratnica and How Much Time to Allow

Zavratnica is worth visiting from late spring to early autumn, when warmer weather makes it nicer to enjoy a swim in the sea. July and August are the busiest months, so arriving early is a good idea if you want to avoid the crowds.

You could easily spend an entire day exploring Zavratnica, but if you’re planning to visit both the bay and Velebit in one day, I’d recommend allowing around two hours to explore Zavratnica.

The Road from Jablanac to Alan Pass

Road Jablanac - Alan

After exploring Zavratnica, it’s time to leave the coast behind and head towards the mountains. From Jablanac, the road climbs from the Adriatic coast towards Alan, a mountain pass at 1,414 metres above sea level. The drive takes you through winding mountain roads, with the landscape gradually changing from coastal vegetation and rocky slopes to the open mountain scenery of Velebit.

Allow around 40 minutes for the drive from Jablanac to Alan Pass.

The road is paved but narrow in places, making it difficult for two vehicles to pass each other. Take your time and drive carefully, especially if you’re driving a larger vehicle such as a campervan. Traffic is usually light, but you may still encounter oncoming vehicles and need to reverse for a few metres to reach a wider section of the road.

Winter closure: The road to Alan closes during winter, but there is no fixed closure date. Before setting off, check the latest road access updates here.

Where to Hike Around Alan

Once you reach Alan Pass, there are several hiking routes worth exploring. Here are two of our favourites.

Alančić Peak

The trail to Alančić starts from the large parking area at Alan Pass, so it’s easy to find. The trail is within Northern Velebit National Park, and a separate entrance ticket is required. Your Zavratnica ticket is not valid for the national park. You can check the latest prices here.

The hike is around 4 km round trip, with approximately 200 metres of elevation gain. Follow the Premužić Trail until you reach the signposted turnoff for Alančić. The ascent takes around an hour and brings you to an elevation of approximately 1,600 metres. From the summit, you can enjoy views of the surrounding mountains, nearby islands and even Zavratnica Bay.

Veliki Kozjak Peak

Veliki Kozjak

 

For a more challenging hike, continue driving past the mountain hut at Alan Pass, where the paved road turns into a gravel road. At the first junction, turn left towards Veliki Lubenovac and continue for around 5 km. At the next junction, turn right again and drive another 500 metres to reach the trailhead.

The hike is relatively short but more demanding than Alančić, with steep, rocky sections that require extra care, especially near the summit. It’s well worth the effort, as the summit is surrounded by unusual limestone rock formations.

Sunset from Alan Pass

If you still have some time and energy left, I’d recommend staying at Alan Pass to watch the sunset. Just above the large parking area, there’s a small hill that you can climb in a few minutes to enjoy open views of the Adriatic Sea and nearby islands.

Where to Stay

During the longer summer days, you can visit Zavratnica Bay and Alan Pass on a day trip from Rijeka, Zagreb or even Split. However, expect quite a bit of driving. Another option is to make Zavratnica a stop along the way to Rab Island, as the ferry to Rab departs from nearby Stinica.

If you’re travelling along the Adriatic coastal road, Jablanac makes a convenient overnight stop. This small coastal village has a few hotels, private apartments and restaurants.

If you’re travelling with a larger group, I’d recommend staying in one of the traditional shepherds’ huts on Velebit. They offer a simple, rustic mountain stay, with basic facilities and space for up to 7 or 10 people. Find more information and booking details on the official Shepherds’ Huts website